Chusetts



(No Model.)

G. W. DAY. MANUFAGTURE 0F SHOES.

No. 440,994. Patented Nov. 18, 1890 m: nunms PETERS 00., Puoro'umu, WASHINGTON, n. c.

Uivirnn TATES ATENT FFICE GEORGE WV. DAY, OF I-IAVERHILL, ASSIGNOR TO IVALTER SHAW, WARREN D. HOBBS, AND HENRY D. HYDE, TRUSTEES, ALL OF BOSTON, MASSA- Cl-IUSETTS.

MAN u FAcTu RE 0F SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 440,99 4, dated November 18, 1890.

Application filed August 27, 1888- Serial No. 283,916. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, GEORGE 7. DAY, of Haverhill, in the county of Essex, and in the State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Mann facture of Shoes; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 shows a transverse sectional view of a last with the shoe thereon in the first stages of manufacture in accordance with my invention; Fig. 2, a transverse sectional View of the shoe with the last removed and the upper stitched to the sole; Fig. 3, a similar view of the same with the temporary lastingblank cut out.

Letters of like name and kind refer to like parts in each of the figures.

' The object of myinvention is to provide an improved process of manufacturing shoes, whereby a single-sole sewed shoe or slipper can be produced without the necessity of turning; and to this end my invention consists in the process and the parts thereof, as hereinafter specified.

lVhere, as has been heretofore done, light shoes and slippers are lasted and sewed inside out and then turned, there is great danger of straining, ripping, and breaking the upper during the turning or inverting process. here finely-finished leather is used for the upper, the folds and wrinkles which have to be made While the shoe is being turned right side out, are sure to mar and injure the appearance of the leather surface. It is with the special intention of avoiding this great objection to the manufacturing of shoes by the turn process that I have invent-ed the improved method or process which I will set forth and claim in this specification.

In carrying out my process I provide a temporary lasting-blank A, of substantially the same shape as but smaller than the sole B to be used. As the edge of this blank may be used as a guide for the machine sewing the sole and upper joining-seam, I make the outline of the blank edge correspond with the lines of the desired seam. When such seam, as usual, follows the contour of the sole at a certain distance from its edge, the lastingblank will be, as indicated above, of substantially the same shape as the sole. With the lasting-blank provided, the upper O is drawn upon and over a last D,and its edges are fastened to the blank by tacks, as usual. After the upper has thus been attached to the temporary blank the sole B is temporarily secured to the upper by tacks or cement, so as to hold it in place during the sewing operation to follow. The last is then withdrawn and the 'sole and upper are stitched together; preferably by a McKay machine. The seam should be set by the machine at such distance from the edge of the lasting-blank that if the upper should be separated from such blank by a cut close to the blank edge enough of the upper edge will be left to insure proper strength and hold for the stitches of the seam After the sowing of the sole to the upper, as set forth, the upper is cut around between the seam and the edge of the lasting-blank and close to such edge, and the blank is drawn out with the lasting-tacks in it and with the narrow strip of cut-off edge of the upper fastened to it. The cutting can be done by machine or by hand. In either case the edge of the lastingblank affords a guide for the knife or cutter.

Where a cutting-machine is used, the horn thereof, carrying the knife, is to be provided with a guard to prevent the cutting of the upper at any point except along the desired line, and to keep the knife from cutting any of the stitches of the seam. lVith suitable guards, and with a guide adapted to engage and move along the edge of the lasting-blank the cutting free of the blank, with its attached strip of upper and the lasting-tacks, can be easily and quickly done without danger of injuring the upper or the seam. After the withdrawal of the lasting-blank, as set forth, the shoe is relasted, beaten out, and finished, and, if desired, a lining-sole F, covering the edges of the upper and the seam,can be inserted and held in place by cement. Y

By cutting the vam p or upper edges between the seam and the lasting-blank, as described,

I leave the blank free to be taken out without any pulling and tearing, and insure the removal of all the lasting-tacks with the blank. The upper edges are also left smooth and clean cut without any torn or rough portions, such as remain where a temporary inner sole, to which the upper is fastened in the lasting, is torn out. This tearing out of such temporary inner sole not only leaves the vamp or upper edges rough and torn, but is apt to leave some of the lasting-tacks in the shoe to make trouble if not afterward removed in some way. Both of these great objections to the tearing-out process as heretofore used are, as indicated hereinbefore, entirely avoided where my process is employed.

The lasting-blank used by me can be cut out of pasteboard, or of any cheap and tough material suitable for the purpose. After the blank is withdrawn from the shoe the lastingtacks can readily be taken out of it and the strip of vamp or upper edge detached, so as to put the blank in condition for subsequent use, if desired. 7

In lasting the upper, instead of attaching it to the lastingblank by tacks, as described, it may be held thereon, until stitched to the outsole, by cement, or it may be drawn and held over the edge of the lasting-blank by strings or threads; but however the upper may be lasted to or over the lasting-blank, both the blank and the tacks, cement or strings used in lasting will be cut out and removed, where my process is carried out.

I have shown in the drawings the sole as provided with a channel on its under side to receive the seam,and a channel-flap to cover the same; but as the form of the seam can be varied at will without afiecting myinvention I do not limit myself to a channeled sole such as shown.

My process, as shown and described, enables me to produce a single-sole sewed shoe with its upper stitched to the sole on its inner face bya seam parallel to the edge of the sole and with the edges of the upper inside of the line of such seam.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is As an improvement in the manufacture of shoes, the process which consists in attaching GEORGE W. DAY.

Witnesses:

ELMER P. HowE, WILLIAM A. SARGENT. 

